While many consider New York and Paris the epicenters of the culinary world, top food writers have described the Twin Cities as “the Silicon Valley of food.” And though critics may think “Minnesota” and conjure iconic images of Juicy Lucys, tater tot hot dish, and lefse, over the last several years the bold north’s diverse food scene has dramatically exploded. Notably, Minneapolis and St. Paul continue to crank out chefs that are recognized nationally for their talent, pizazz, and unique culinary twist.
In short, there is no shortage of great food in the Twin Cities.
Over the last several years, the concept of eating “local” has caught on as a craze and spread like wild fire throughout the country. Millennials are (both literally and metaphorically) hungry to shop sustainably, eat responsibly, and support local economies, and cities—both large and small—have responded with a healthy appetite to indulge the hype and embrace this new lifestyle choice. Gone are the days of prolific restaurant chains and big-name eateries; now, the smaller, the more local, and the more off-the-beaten path, the better. On top of all this, with the rise of social media, a restaurant’s inherent charm and unique visual appeal most certainly matters.
While seemingly endless examples of Twin Cities’ restaurants fit this bill, I find myself particularly enamored by the effortless charm and flawless culinary skill embodied by three sister restaurants: The Copper Hen, Gray Fox, and The Copper Cow.
Owned by local couple Danielle and Chris Bjorling, each location offers a fresh take on classic staples while charming guests with an elegant, alluring ambiance that ultimately takes a tasty meal and transforms it into a truly exquisite dining experience.
The Bjorlings, who started their culinary trio with The Copper Hen in 2014, have a keen ability for marrying delicious food with artful ambiance. This talent, paired with their ambitious visionary desire to embrace multiple cross-town projects at once, characterizes them as the Minnesotan version of Chip and Joanna Gaines, whose ever-expanding Magnolia empire now effectively defines Waco, Texas. Indeed, over the last couple years the Bjorlings took on two major projects by adding Gray Fox and The Copper Cow into the mix, all while simultaneously expanding their flagship restaurant to create an adjacent space with a private dining room and bar that ultimately makes The Copper Hen too damn cute for its own good.
Indeed, The Copper Hen Cakery & Kitchen pairs market-to-table cooking with a charming aesthetic that captures imaginations and makes visitors feel as if they are stepping into a simpler, humbler time. Situated on Eat Street, the farmhouse chic restaurant and cake bakery makes everything from scratch and sources its ingredients from a number of local purveyors to bring guests a dining experience that rivals anything larger cities have to offer. At the Copper Hen, every detail is artfully curated and handled with care. Even the restrooms are painstakingly crafted, one being wallpapered with pages from the farmers’ almanac and the other covered with 1,100 handwritten recipe cards. The restaurant’s delectable menu, tantalizing baked goods, and soft feminine charm make it the perfect spot to enjoy both a festive weekend brunch or a romantic date night.
The middle child, Gray Fox Coffee & Wine bar takes The Copper Hen’s soft, dreamy aesthetic and applies a sleek, modern twist. Located in the first-floor atrium of the former TCF Tower (now 801 Marquette) in downtown Minneapolis, Gray Fox is easily accessible via the Skyway and offers businesspeople the perfect mid-workday retreat[1]. Open from 7AM to 7PM, Gray Fox ramps up the coffee game, boosts the elegance, and throws a healthy dash of hipster into the mix to transform it into anything but your typical café experience. Gray Fox offers artfully designed coffees, locally beloved Cardigan Donuts, and vibrant smoothie bowls, but it also boasts a tasteful happy hour menu that features champagne, frosé, and local craft beer. Pair this with copious amounts of natural light juxtaposed with equal parts dark velvet and moody polished ambiance, and Gray Fox promises to make anyone smile after a long day at the office.
Decidedly more masculine than its sister counterpart, The Copper Cow Kitchen & Bar opened in early 2019 as the third gem in the Bjorling restaurant trio. Envisioned as a casual burger and brunch place, The Copper Cow incorporates flashes of tartan plaid with old, worn leather to complement the vibe given off by its logo and namesake, a mounted Scottish Highland cow. Ever game for a challenge, the Bjorling couple took the blueprint of a former Dairy Queen and transformed it into something spectacular, a cozy rustic-inspired retreat tucked away in a major western suburb. The open floorplan maximizes the restaurant’s modest square footage and adds both playful elements of old-world luxury and shiny flashes of copper without going overboard. When it comes to food, The Copper Cow is known for its unique twists on burgers (see the “Cow and the Sow” or the “Donut Burger”) and boozy milkshakes, a whimsical nod to the foundation on which it stands. Cam and I love this local hotspot for its tantalizing food and low maintenance charm, and we may or may not have even dined there twice in one weekend. The Copper Cow: It’s simply that good.
For whatever reason, Minnesota has a thing for pairing animals and colors and using this as a sort of determinative pattern for naming restaurants. We have Red Cow. Red Rabbit. Black Sheep. Copper Hen. Copper Cow. Gray Fox. Clearly there’s something about both mammals and hues that speak to Minnesotan restaurateurs on a deep psychological level. And, wherever this odd naming convention stems from, it weirdly just works.
Particularly for the Bjorlings’ trio of culinary hotspots, pairing
something raw and untamed (an animal) with something familiar and comforting (a
color) produces an effect that is wildly unexpected and extraordinary in nature. No matter where you choose to dine, find your
local versions of the Bjorlings’ restaurants and savor them for the treasures
they are: True copper diamonds in the
rough.
[1] In fact, in the midst of this dreary sun-less winter we are having, my coworker Sarah and I may or may not have had one (or two) meetings at Gray Fox this week, just to mix things up. It’s crazy what a simple change of scenery can do to boost energy and give you a whole new perspective.
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